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Tanfoglio Tuning Thread

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#21 Twinkie

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 06:49 PM

I put a trimmed stock plunger spring back in after using a weak-ass pen spring cut down so it didn't coil bind. I didn't like the vagueness of the reset, thought it did work fine mechanically.

The work done to my beast....

Polish everything, and I mean EVERYTHING (even the firing pin retaining plate...)
One-piece sear
EG Guide rod
8lb recoil spring
Trimmed stock plunger spring
Trimmed mag release spring
12lb main (hammer) spring
EG Hammer
EG Firing Pin
Cajun trigger spring
Cajun sear spring
Cajun disconnector (required fititng)
Cut off well over an inch from the Wolff firing pin spring

I need to use Federals, but they are 100%. The gun is remarkably reliable, not at all what I was expecting.

Pull is about 5.5 DA and 2lb SA.

I lube with Slide Glide Light on the plunger head, trigger bar where it hits the sear/cage, and on the tips of the trigger bar where it contacts the slide. I use oil (lubriplate something... I forget) on the sear/hammer. Slide Glide standard on slide rails and barrel lockup points.

I've had three smiths work on my gun and I've done some to it myself. Next time I will have just one smith do some work and do the rest myself.

#22 midvalleyshooter

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 06:52 PM

Firing pin safety? Seems like you might as well build up a stock SP-01.

 

You gotta find those springs! New ones will be just as small:)



#23 BDSoverflow

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 07:12 PM

Looks like you got the 2 piece sear in there

#24 rballz

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 07:57 PM

I was drinking beer and cooking - so I used the kitchen instead of the man cave.

 

FP spring ended up in the sink, but I found it.   :lol:

 

So far I can't even find where you can buy a stock Stock 3 plunger spring.  I think I broke the gat.



#25 Matt_Mc

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 09:43 PM

Those guns have a FP block.... Holy shit!


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#26 rballz

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 09:48 PM

Those guns have a FP block.... Holy shit!


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I thought all stocks did?



#27 Matt_Mc

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 09:54 PM

Hell, I don't know. Guess that surprised me as shadows do not.


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#28 Twinkie

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 10:10 PM

Hell, I don't know. Guess that surprised me as shadows do not.


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I see what you did there.



#29 rballz

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 10:26 PM

I put a stock SP-01 spring back in to get the gun back together.

 

I may cut a few coils.

 

Seems like selling this Stock 3 for a Shadow SP-01 may be a better bet.


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#30 Zsavage81

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 08:20 AM

Seems to be sparse info on tuning Tanfos.

 

DYVG has a ton of info in his diary thread and there's some info on Enos.

 

Why shouldn't Doodie have the best info available?

 

So what if you have a Tanfo and have tuned it - post the model, work you've done or have had done, and the results.

 

I just bought a Stock III and a CZ SP-01.  I put a few hundred dollars in CGW pieces in the CZ and it's really really great now.  

 

I'm not sure what to do with the Stock III.  I don't want to swim too deep in the light primer territory.

 

 

I have all the info you desire, but if you think I'm giving it away fro free on the interwebz yous crazy!


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#31 Zsavage81

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 08:45 AM

Biggest problem with these guns from what I've seen is they are over smithed. Too much material is being removed from critical parts. The other thing is there is a decent amount of variation between frames and the cast internal parts, so it's hard to have a universal recipe that's going to work in every gun. A good caliper tells you what you should and should not be doing if you know what you are looking for! On one gun you might need to remove a bunch of material from the trigger bar, on another you might need to not remove any.

 

If you have a virgin, unfucked up gun, I have a parts list (and the parts) to make it as good as it can be gotten with everything that's out currently (i'm not saying someone won't make some better parts at some point so we can make these guns even better, but we've tested every combo under the sun that is currently available). I have a 100% pop tula set-up, and a 100% pop CCI and softer set-up. You give up about a pound in the trigger to reliably pop tula's.


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#32 barry owens

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 08:48 AM

Is that in the 9mm or the converted 9mm guns?

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#33 Zsavage81

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 08:59 AM

Is that in the 9mm or the converted 9mm guns?

 

 

 Great Question! From the virgin guns I've seen whose serial numbers come back to the caliber marked on the slide this is true. I haven't gotten the pleasure of working on one of the basterd guns so I can't answer with absolute certainty; however, my gut tells me if it's that way on matching guns then it's got to be that way on conversions.


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#34 Brandon

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 05:36 PM

Biggest problem with these guns from what I've seen is they are over smithed. Too much material is being removed from critical parts. The other thing is there is a decent amount of variation between frames and the cast internal parts, so it's hard to have a universal recipe that's going to work in every gun. A good caliper tells you what you should and should not be doing if you know what you are looking for! On one gun you might need to remove a bunch of material from the trigger bar, on another you might need to not remove any.

If you have a virgin, unfucked up gun, I have a parts list (and the parts) to make it as good as it can be gotten with everything that's out currently (i'm not saying someone won't make some better parts at some point so we can make these guns even better, but we've tested every combo under the sun that is currently available). I have a 100% pop tula set-up, and a 100% pop CCI and softer set-up. You give up about a pound in the trigger to reliably pop tula's.


When you say we, who are you speaking of? ;-)

On a serious note, any of you who are interested in making your Tanfo run 100%, give Zach Savage of Last Round Armament a call. He has a huge inventory of all the parts you'll need, and he is very knowledgeable about these guns and knows exactly what is needed to make them run.

#35 waktasz

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 06:56 PM

What's the 100% CCI setup?

 

Right now I'm at about 98% CCI and 100% Fed primer

 

Stock 2 .40

9 lb recoil spring

EG light hammer and FP spring

EG Firing pin

CGW trigger return spring

Bic pen plunger spring

1 piece sear

DA is good, not sure of weight though as my scale only goes to 5 pounds. SA is 2.25 pounds. I'm sure a new sear spring would make that even light but I'll shoot my dick off. 



#36 JaeOne3345

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 07:23 PM

A regular fpb equipped sp-01 with a few CGW goodies seems to be a better platform than these shit sticks. Federals only? That's fucking garbage.
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A75033


#37 waktasz

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 07:26 PM

I could easily use a 15 pound spring, give up a pound on the DA trigger and pop everything, but who wants to do that?


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#38 JaeOne3345

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 07:28 PM

Sounds like you should just get a shadow. If not go open. Special powder. Special primers. Same shit.

A75033


#39 BDSoverflow

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 07:28 PM

I'm cool with shooting just Federals, they work fine in my shit stick
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#40 Twinkie

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 07:29 PM

A regular fpb equipped sp-01 with a few CGW goodies seems to be a better platform than these shit sticks. Federals only? That's fucking garbage.

 

So much hate.Do you even Production?







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