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#61 GuanoLoco

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Posted 01 January 2015 - 06:09 PM

5K white for your simulated steel paper plate racks. I'm digging mine. And I even have steel.
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#62 ZachJ

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Posted 01 January 2015 - 06:15 PM

I'll just use the steel they got at the range where I can use holster. They're slightly smaller than the calibration zone on an IPSC popper so.. Should be good for practice and destroying my self-esteem at 25+ yds


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#63 ZachJ

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Posted 14 January 2015 - 05:07 AM

I've been using a phone shot timer called: IPSC Shot Timer (Beta version)

 

The results are kinda depressing.

 

Draws are anywhere from 1.3-1.9

 

Reloads are 1.1-1.4

 

I'm supposed to have a sub 1 draw and sub 1 reload right?


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#64 GuanoLoco

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Posted 14 January 2015 - 08:51 AM

On the bright side, it's a lot easier to IMHO improve your draw speed than reload speed with some regular dry fire practice. All this is in the books.

You need to train out the inefficiencies in movement, not compromise your grip, and get good at drawing to a precise visual point of index. I like using a small dot like a paster or even a finishing nail in the correct spot on a target or reduced size target.

Skip the trigger press for a while and just go for a sight picture. Use progressively faster par times, ending each of many brief sessions going slightly faster than you can control.

It's fun and you can get a lot better faster than you would think.

Then do it all over again calibrating with a trigger press, and testing in live fire to keep yourself honest.
Are you now, or have you ever been a member of the Doodie Project?

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#65 Twinkie

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Posted 14 January 2015 - 01:02 PM

Draw is all about a fuck-ton of reps and periodic check-ups to see what exactly you're doing.

I've found my improvements are mostly consistency and in reacting to the beep as fast as possible. Make sure you have an efficient motion, and then do that for like 10,000 reps.
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#66 mx5

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Posted 14 January 2015 - 01:35 PM

I'm supposed to have a sub 1 draw and sub 1 reload right?

I guess those are the magic numbers. FWIW, I have shot 100% on several classifiers with a 1.2-1.3 draw and 1.2-1.3 reload. 


"...wheeling out to my vehicle (in a wheel chair) with a walker across my lap."


#67 jabbermurph

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Posted 14 January 2015 - 03:35 PM

The draw is easy....it's those damn reloads that'll get ya

#68 ZachJ

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Posted 14 January 2015 - 04:00 PM

 
Practicing on this for draws and reloads.
 
Hardest part of the draw is making sure I get a good grip on the gun, making sure once my arms are extended that the sights are lined up properly, and squeezing the trigger while making sure the dot stays on the white at the bare minimum.
 
If I go absolute ape shit and focus on only a good grip but a gun pointed at the red/white, then I have gotten 19/100 repetitions sub 1 second draw with trigger squeeze.. But that's not good enough for me.
 
Edit: Distance to "target" is about 3 metres/yards

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#69 ZachJ

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Posted 15 January 2015 - 06:36 PM

DRYFIRE

 

Draw and Reload update

 

Using the advice from the ever so helpful posters here and one of the dryfire drills from Ben's Training to Win DVD... Started with draw to sight pictures with a par time of 0.8

 

Once I was able to get consistent sight pictures in that par time with the minimum sight picture standard of white on the dot, I started squeezing the trigger too.

 

Draws are now consistently 1-1.2secs. Draws with an absolute perfect pull (meaning no sight movement during the squeeze) are 1.4-1.7

 

Worked on the reloads as well, 1.1-1.15 unless I fuck it up and hit the front of the magwell. In that case it turns into a 1.9+ reload.

 

One thing I noticed with draws and reloads making these times.. I have to really muscle it, I wouldn't say tense parts of my body, but I have to muscle through them to make these times. If I just do them at my relaxed pace, similar to a shoot all A's guaranteed pace, then draws are around 2 secs and reloads are 2-2.5secs. (I don't get why reloads would take longer relaxed compared to my "Get it done" pace)

 

Amount of draws to get a 100/100 attempts 1-1.2 sec draw: 5.5-6k

Amount of reloads to make a 100/100 1.1-1.15 sec reload: around 2k

 

Still chasing the sub 1s.. Also practicing some El Prez type SHO/WHO drills w/o the timer.. They're kind of depressing. Transferring the gun to WHO takes up a lot of time.. and I can't get consistently good trigger pulls with WHO the sights go all over the place on average 30% of my "shots". SHO has improved though, trigger pulls dont mess with the sights so that's an improvement over my Black Badge Course.


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Deliberate, then obliterate.™

 

I am unafraid to miss.


#70 dravz

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Posted 16 January 2015 - 11:29 PM

Draw is all about a fuck-ton of reps and periodic check-ups to see what exactly you're doing.
I've found my improvements are mostly consistency and in reacting to the beep as fast as possible. Make sure you have an efficient motion, and then do that for like 10,000 reps.


Every drill starts with it so in a sense you're always practicing the draw.

#71 Twinkie

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Posted 17 January 2015 - 06:03 AM

Every drill starts with it so in a sense you're always practicing the draw.


True. I'd still practice just the draw in isolation occasionally to isolate that skill, especially if you do find it boning you a lot due to missed grip or something.

#72 ZachJ

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Posted 17 January 2015 - 08:35 PM

I can only work on draws and reloads on timer right now.

 

The app is kinda fucky with what it picks up and how I need to position it to hear the click of the gun. I put it on the bed with the mic/speaker facing towards where the gun is gonna be.

 

Even with the sensor set high enough that usually I'll only get 1 reading and thats for a hammer drop, sometimes I'll draw fast/hard enough out of holster that even that gets picked up.

 

If I set the sensor too low because I put it on the table so I can practice an El Prez type drill, it picks up multiple sounds during the hammer drop, gun makes 2 sounds it picks up. Gun clearing the holster will make 3 sounds it could possibly pick up.. Tempted to just practice without timer and validate using the app during livefire because it seems like thats what it's really meant for. I can set the sensor high enough that nothing but gun shots get picked up.


Deliberate, then obliterate.™

 

I am unafraid to miss.


#73 GuanoLoco

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Posted 17 January 2015 - 11:46 PM

Uh, why are you trying to use a timer mic for dry fire?

All you need is a start beep, and a par timer, and you don't always even need that.
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#74 ZachJ

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Posted 18 January 2015 - 02:57 AM

I mean the Comstock mode. Depending on the situations above the phone ends up picking up stuff like the gun clearing the holster. If I just used par time I'd never know what my actual times are. I use Comstock version to see exactly where I'm at for the 100/100 attempts to make sure stuff wasn't a fluke.

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I am unafraid to miss.


#75 ZachJ

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 12:35 AM

With all this drawing and reloading and el prez at speed..

 

I'm feeling dirty with some of the sight pictures that I'm now starting to call acceptable. Going back to the roots and just practicing good old trigger squeeze on some small countries on the "World Map" and making sure there is zero movement and the sights stay on "target" and that I have solid grips from a draw and after I perform a reload.

 

11am-2am trigger squeeze, aiming, "calling shots", making sure I have deathgrip practice time


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#76 GuanoLoco

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 07:34 AM

I waited too long before adding movement drills. Precious few USPSA matches start with a draw to a target. Remember to practice stepping in to a box, for example, on the draw.
Are you now, or have you ever been a member of the Doodie Project?

You'll never find a more wretched hive of scum and villainy.

In Doodie, Veritas.

"You might be a little thin-skinned for this forum". -Scott.

#77 ZachJ

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 01:19 PM

I waited too long before adding movement drills. Precious few USPSA matches start with a draw to a target. Remember to practice stepping in to a box, for example, on the draw.

 

I've been practicing moving while drawing, drawing from seated, table pickups and then loading a mag and racking the slide a bit.

 

In Ben's TTW DVD one of the livefire drills had him behind a wall with targets on left side and targets on right side. He showed that the way to shoot that was to shoot from inside->out on the side you begin, which for me would be left, cause I hate reloading moving right->left, too much chances of breaking 180 if not careful or going light speed. Then after reloading on the way to right side, shoot out->in. Reason was so that he could get moving on the last targets of the first array.

 

Interesting stuff that I didn't know about until I watched it. I tried starting behind a wall in my room then aiming through the wall after I drew and moving as I shot the final "targets" but my sight pictures while moving are very sketchy.. So I'm gonna stay away from that for a while until I get some range time to see what sight pictures are acceptable while moving.


Deliberate, then obliterate.™

 

I am unafraid to miss.


#78 GuanoLoco

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 09:43 PM

I've been practicing moving while drawing, drawing from seated, table pickups and then loading a mag and racking the slide a bit.

 

In Ben's TTW DVD one of the livefire drills had him behind a wall with targets on left side and targets on right side. He showed that the way to shoot that was to shoot from inside->out on the side you begin, which for me would be left, cause I hate reloading moving right->left, too much chances of breaking 180 if not careful or going light speed. Then after reloading on the way to right side, shoot out->in. Reason was so that he could get moving on the last targets of the first array.

 

Interesting stuff that I didn't know about until I watched it. I tried starting behind a wall in my room then aiming through the wall after I drew and moving as I shot the final "targets" but my sight pictures while moving are very sketchy.. So I'm gonna stay away from that for a while until I get some range time to see what sight pictures are acceptable while moving.

 

Sigh, I have to be able to turn on and off USPSA "solve the puzzle your way" vs. IDPA "tactical priority" aka "slice he pie" sequencing because I am a retard that still shoots USPSA and IDPA.

 

Changing rule and holstering systems all the time is dumb.  And it is what I end up doing all the time.


Are you now, or have you ever been a member of the Doodie Project?

You'll never find a more wretched hive of scum and villainy.

In Doodie, Veritas.

"You might be a little thin-skinned for this forum". -Scott.

#79 ZachJ

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Posted 19 January 2015 - 10:44 PM

Sigh, I have to be able to turn on and off USPSA "solve the puzzle your way" vs. IDPA "tactical priority" aka "slice he pie" sequencing because I am a retard that still shoots USPSA and IDPA.

Changing rule and holstering systems all the time is dumb. And it is what I end up doing all the time.

Makes sense.

When I get the spare time and money I'll tinker in other divisions like open and standard/limited, rifle, shotgun and even revolver. I wanna get good enough to a point where I can pick up any gun and just shoot it at its division's gm level.

Except single action revos.. Those are just weird to run fast.

Might even do some idpa if I go down there.

Deliberate, then obliterate.™

 

I am unafraid to miss.


#80 ZachJ

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 10:14 PM

Range Live Fire Update

 

Haven't shot the CZ since early December.

 

Got out to the range today. The one that doesn't allow holsters.  Shot 2 8.5x11 paper bullseye targets at 25yd and 1 dot drill at 10yd. I had a spotting scope to check the paper everytime I finished a mag/group/shooting.

 

Shot 10 rounds of Blazer Brass 115gr and 10 rounds of S&B 124gr into the 50yd berm. Getting used to the recoil of the gun, making sure I'm gripping hard but not hard enough to shake the sights, practicing shooting both eyes open, focusing on the front sight mostly.

 

Rested the gun on a wood block and shot at a bullseye printed on a 8.5x11 piece of paper. 2 flyers 4" to the left, but 8 of the shots grouped within 3" but the group's center would be about 1.5" high and 2" to the right. This was with Blazer Brass 115gr. Was not able to do some rested shots with the S&B 124gr. 

 

Did a 50 shots at 25yd "drill". I established I can definitely put all shots on paper at 10.66 seconds. Less than that and it started to go down hill a bit. First attempt was the 10 shots on paper at 10.66 and from then on I kept pushing the time per 10 shots until I got to a 5.34. At the end I counted 35 of the shots hit the paper. Oddly enough, these were the S&B 124gr rounds which I'm trying to burn through for a reason at the end of the update. Most of the shots landed slightly up and to the right of the bullseye similar to the Blazer Brass 115gr.

 

For dot drill I put it at 10yd naively, and attempted to make the par time set on Ben's site 5 seconds. The result was about what you'd expect. 12 hits out of 36 in dots/touching the circle. Average time was about 15 seconds/6 shots. This was a very demoralizing drill. 

 

Summary

 

So.. I think what I've learned is that I have a decent trigger pull/squeeze, with enough time anyway, Blazer Brass 115gr rested and S&B 124 gr freestyle at 25yds both grouped slightly high and to the right of my aiming point. Someone correct me if I don't actually have a decent trigger pull/squeeze and I'm actually terrible.

 

The Blazer Brass' stated 131PF on its website and S&B's 145PF do accurately portray these two are way different. I thought S&B was kidding when they said 145 PF and it's 124 gr is faster than Blazer's 115 gr, but they did not kid. Making sure I was squeezing hard with my hands, but not enough to make the sights shake, I noticed the S&B had almost double the muzzle rise that I saw from watching the sights rise and drop when I shot into the berm. I have no way to know if the PF difference is definite, but just shooting and watching sights it seemed like it. I'm gonna use the S&B for practice until its gone.

 

DAA SP-01 Thin aluminium grips are pretty awesome, I thought from dryfiring they would not have enough friction even with grip tape, but it turns out they do, and the ease to reload means these are gonna go on my future CZs.

 

Shot a guy's Ruger SR9 cause he was having trouble with some reloads and wanted someone decent to try it and make sure nothing was wrong, somehow I looked like a decent guy today. I guess you can say it has a Glock style trigger cause it has that middle part that protrudes a bit. I don't know if it was the lightness or what, but I felt like I had to put more effort into countering the recoil. Trigger actually wasn't that bad, heavier than my CZ85B's SA but about the same as my DA, though not as crisp? than my DA pull.

 

Oh yeah, I got invited to a silhouette shoot on the 15th. I don't have a .22 pistol, so when the time comes I'm borrowing the Handgun Club President's .22 S&W revo. I got to try it today for about 24 shots. The SA on that thing is amazing. It has no takeup whatsoever and is light as hell. My first SA shot was almost a negligent discharge if not for the revo pointing at the berm. A tiny touch and it goes off. The DA is comparable to my CZ's.

 

Until I figure out how to change the resolution of my photos.. links, otherwise they take up half the post.

 

Rested group: http://i1377.photobu...zpsua5mng4f.jpg

 

50 shots standing: http://i1377.photobu...zps3lci8mvm.jpg

 

Dot Drill: http://i1377.photobu...zpsvcaodblp.jpg

 

Don't know what happened to the "c". I was trying to hit the bottom right dot and somehow that happened, if only I could do that but where I was aiming next time.


Deliberate, then obliterate.™

 

I am unafraid to miss.






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