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Brass Marker!

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#1 Trigger Warning

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 08:39 AM

You shoot precious 38 Super Comp.  You’re crazy.  Whatever the reason, you’re the kind of person who wants to recover their brass.  If you shoot super comp and you’re crazy, you want to mark your brass to make it easier to pick out on the ground when it’s covered by all the glocked 9mm nobody wants.  There are many ways to do it, and you can certainly build your own rig, but you can also purchase a little jig set up to cater to your psychotic mind.

 

This little baby is available on ebay.  I bought one.  Here’s what I think.

 

s-l400_zpsoqfbqn7p.jpg

 

It’s not very strong, being comprised in large part of a fairly flexible plastic.  The markers can slide in and out sometimes.  BUT, it quickly marks three cases at a time that slide out the contraption after marking.  For the purpose, it’s the best device I could find and I like it for what it is.  I went from saying fuck it on marking brass to actually doing it.  It works.  The end.


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#2 Vagetarian

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 08:52 AM

Or you could move into the year 2013 and shoot 9mm major and get free brass.  That just looks like a solution looking for a problem.


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#3 LeadChucker

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 08:54 AM

You shoot precious 38 Super Comp.  You’re crazy.  Whatever the reason, you’re the kind of person who wants to recover their brass.  If you shoot super comp and you’re crazy, you want to mark your brass to make it easier to pick out on the ground when it’s covered by all the glocked 9mm nobody wants.  There are many ways to do it, and you can certainly build your own rig, but you can also purchase a little jig set up to cater to your psychotic mind.
 
This little baby is available on ebay.  I bought one.  Here’s what I think.
 
s-l400_zpsoqfbqn7p.jpg
 
It’s not very strong, being comprised in large part of a fairly flexible plastic.  The markers can slide in and out sometimes.  BUT, it quickly marks three cases at a time that slide out the contraption after marking.  For the purpose, it’s the best device I could find and I like it for what it is.  I went from saying fuck it on marking brass to actually doing it.  It works.  The end.


So, you have a 1050, with a MBF, and a Mark7, but your are going to mark 3 pieces of brass at a time????

OK, got it
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#4 Trigger Warning

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 08:56 AM

Or you could move into the year 2013 and shoot 9mm major and get free brass.  That just looks like a solution looking for a problem.

 

 

So, you have a 1050, with a MBF, and a Mark7, but your are going to mark 3 pieces of brass at a time????

OK, got it

 

 

It seems so dumb when you guys put it like that.  But it is dumb.  I've seen marked brass but I've never seen a better way to mark it!

 

Anyway, I don't have a Mark7, but I did just hook up an Ammobot.  


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#5 ZackJones

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 08:59 AM

Put them in the hundo and mark them. I just tell anyone picking up brass I'd like the green ones back and I usually get a lot back.
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#6 peterthefish

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 08:59 AM

I've seen marked brass but I've never seen a better way to mark it!

1) case gauge with Hundo
2) transfer to MTM 100 round box
3) use markers to do lines across bases
4) 100 rounds marked in about 10 seconds.

You get creative - use a red and blue marker and you have pretty distinctive brass.
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#7 Trigger Warning

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 09:03 AM

Put them in the hundo and mark them. I just tell anyone picking up brass I'd like the green ones back and I usually get a lot back.

 

 

1) case gauge with Hundo
2) transfer to MTM 100 round box
3) use markers to do lines across bases
4) 100 rounds marked in about 10 seconds.

 

 

Completely agree on the efficiency of this and did this before.  The only downside is seeing them on the ground and not getting many back.  The mark on the case body helps with this from what I've seen.  Anyway, it will probably break soon and I'll be back to just saying screw it.


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#8 Intel6

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 09:29 AM

I did this when my open gun was still in 9x23 and then I had it converted to 9mm and never did it again.



#9 jayohee

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 09:29 AM



This is the fastest way I've seen if you're trying to stripe the wall of the case

#10 adoo

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 09:34 AM

wtf to this thread.


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#11 Buck Turgidson

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 09:40 AM

I just use this to write my name on each and every one

 

DSC00312_retouched2.jpg


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#12 Miculek is a Noob

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 09:44 AM

Amazing -- you made Open even more dumb.


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#13 adoo

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 12:58 PM

the guy in video is marking his .40S&W brass... for REAL? thats pretty much the cheapest most available brass, you can buy drums of it.



#14 Not Will

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 01:13 PM

These guys make custom headstamp brass.

http://www.qual-cart...m Headstamp.htm

I'm shooting 9minor, but this way I make sure I'm picking up the right brass.

#15 GuanoLoco

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 03:59 PM

Fuck that. 9 Minor and LOTS of brass free for the picking. I'm about to fill my 6th 5 gallon bucket and probably have accumulated enough for the rest of my natural life, assuming I recover even a modest % of what I shoot. Of course I always come back with far more than I shoot and I have other people giving me brass from time to time so no longer an issue for me.
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#16 Not Will

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 05:28 PM

The real solution to this issue is two-fold:

1. Don't shoot a gay boutique caliber.
2. Get involved in some capacity with an indoor match.

I take home a thousand-ish pieces of brass a week so that if I am tired or sad after a match or practice, I leave that shit on the ground for people with cement mixers to pick up.

#17 arancio

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 06:44 PM

Rather than mark the brass, color the whole case:

 

The Coloring of Brass
by Royce W. Beal
written on 17 March 1995 specifically for the readers
of the rec.guns newsgroup.
questions should be directed to me at SLQZ4@CC.USU.EDU

Read this entire essay before attempting any one
treatment. If you choose to just "cut and paste" part
of this, please make sure you get the safety instructions
and warnings after the recipes. Under no circumstances
do I consider myself liable for any accidents which occur
while using any of these chemicals. Also, I do not consider
myself an expert in this field and am still doing research
for the FAQ. This will be a temporary article. Because I
am still experimenting, I cannot vouch for all of these
colors.

Concentrations and conditions DO matter. (Concentration
is more important than actual volume, so if you want to
use less, make sure that you use proportionately less of
each ingredient) If you want good results follow the
recipes closely. Above all it is important that the brass
surfaces be clean. This means an extra hour or so in the
tumbler for the cases and then touch them only sparingly.

I have tried to collate recipes which will require the
acquisition of the more common chemicals. I have also tried
to steer clear of the really hazardous arsenic and cyanide
salts (which you probably can't get anyway) If you feel
that you've been cheated by this, please refer to the
references section of this report and find the books for yourself in any well stocked library.

It is my understanding that these are all surface
coatings and should not damage or weaken the brass.
Obviously you will want to do this treatment with unprimed
brass. DO NOT USE METAL UTENSILS (ok maybe stainless steel)
Glass or Plastic containers are the preference.
If you are really worried about what this is going to do to your brass,
refer again to the reference section below.

TIFFANY GREEN:
Copper Sulfate.................8 ounces
Ammonium Chloride..............4 ounces
Sodium Chloride................4 ounces
Zinc Chloride..................1 ounce
Acetic Acid....................2 ounces
Water..........................1 gallon

VERDE:
Copper Nitrate.................16 ounces
Ammonium Chloride..............4 ounces
Acetic Acid....................1 quart
Water..........................1 gallon

GREEN:
Iron ( ferric) Nitrate.........2 ounces ( Fe(III)(NO3)3)
Sodium Hyposulphite............8 ounces
Water..........................1 gallon
(use at boiling temperature, brass can be immersed
or the solution may be "painted" on)

HARDWARE GREEN:
Iron (ferric) Nitrate..........1 ounce (Fe(III)(NO3)3)
Sodium Thiosulfate.............6 ounces
Water..........................1 gallon
(use at 160F)

RED:
Iron (ferric) Nitrate..........6 ounces (Fe(III)(NO3)3)
Sodium hyposulphite............6 ounces
Water..........................1 gallon
(use at 170F will speed up this reaction)

BLUE:
Sodium Hyposulphite............8 ounces Lead Acetate...................4 ounces
Water..........................1 gallon
(use at boiling temperature)
or
Lead Acetate...................2 to 4 ounces
Sodium Thiosulfate.............8 ounces
Acetic Acid....................4 ounces
Water..........................1 gallon
(use at 180F. This color will change if
not lacquered [DO NOT LACQUER FIREARM CARTRIDGES]
Take your chances with the color change.)

BLUE BLACK:
Copper Carbonate...............1 pound
Ammonium Hydroxide.............1 quart
Water..........................3 quarts
(Add the water after the carbonate and hydroxide
have been mixed. There must be excess Copper
Carbonate. Use at 175F. This color can be fixed
(made more permanent) by quickly dipping in a 2.5%# Sodium Hydroxide solution.)

BLACK:
Ammonium Hydrosulfide...........2.25 ounces
Potassium sulfide...............1 ounce
Water...........................1 gallon
(use at room temperature or COOLER for best results)

BROWN:
Potassium Chlorate..............5.5 ounces
Nickel Sulfate..................2.75 ounces
Copper Sulfate..................24 ounces
Water...........................1 gallon
(use at boiling temperature)

SAFETY:
1. NEVER taste any of these chemicals.
2. Keep very far out of the reach of children.
3. Most Nitrates are good oxidizing agents and
should not be stored with anything flammable.
4. Acetic Acid has a VERY strong pungent odor.
Use in well ventilated areas. This acid can
be airborne in vapor form. If you feel that
you have breathed enough of it to feel
uncomfortable, leave the area and drink a
carbonated soft drink. "Have a Coke" Do not underestimate this chemical.
5. Many of these chemicals may stain your skin or
clothing. Wear rubber gloves and protective
clothing including glasses of some sort.
6. Steam can cause serious burns. Solutions of salts
can actually exceed the boiling point of water.
The steam from these solutions can be very dangerous.
BE CAREFUL WITH STEAM AND BOILING SOLUTIONS.
7. Feel free to change concentrations for experimentation
purposes but do not change the ingredients in any
one recipe.
8. Always be fully awake and alert around chemicals.

CONVERSIONS AND INTERPRETATIONS:
Ounces are assumably troy ounces, even when dealing
with liquids or solutions. Do not use fluid ounces.
1 ounce = 31.103 grams = 480 grains
1 quart = 0.25 gallon = 946.4 mL
1 gallon = 3.785 L


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#18 jayohee

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Posted 26 April 2016 - 07:05 PM

Didn't read the whole thing but I'm assuming it's about dying the brass? Any pocs

#19 arancio

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Posted 27 April 2016 - 04:17 AM

Didn't read the whole thing but I'm assuming it's about dying the brass? Any pocs

 

"The Coloring of Brass
by Royce W. Beal"

 

What was your first clue ??



#20 ZackJones

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Posted 27 April 2016 - 05:19 AM

How in the hell did you dig up that old info?
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