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I got a Glock 43 and Perfected it

Glock Perfection fire on release

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#1 Yard Sale

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Posted 13 August 2016 - 04:10 PM

I got a Glock 43, brought it hope, functioned it, and took it apart to polish the trigger parts, install a different front sight, and reverse the rear sight.

 

Now the trigger fires when pulled, but also, while holding the trigger back and after cycling the slide and then:

  • when the slide is cycled other than gently
  • when pressure is eased up on the trigger slightly (e.g., to begin to reset)
  • when the gun is shaken

I am almost certain it's the sear engagement, the back of the cruciform with the protruding piece of the striker. (My orange plate for checking engagement on full size guns doesn't fit.) Nonetheless, I bent the connector every which way before giving up.

 

By polishing I mean lightly, nylon brush on a buffer wheel and Dremel. No stones, sandpaper, polishing compound, or even toothpaste.

 


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#2 Not Will

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Posted 13 August 2016 - 04:20 PM

So do you like the new sight setup?

 

 

 

I'm kind of jealous of your terrifying Glock.  Seems like just the thing to confound your enemies.  


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#3 not that bryan

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Posted 13 August 2016 - 05:43 PM

You installed the trigger bar wrong.

#4 Yard Sale

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Posted 13 August 2016 - 06:57 PM

Which part is the trigger bar? I never removed anything from the frame except the block that comes out with the connector. It was a bitch getting the cruciform back under the J hook.


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#5 Sad Sack

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Posted 13 August 2016 - 07:10 PM

Uhhh...the trigger bar is the long bar connected to the trigger.  The rear of the trigger bar is the "cruciform" you describe, and it attaches to the trigger return spring, fits into the trigger mechanism housing with ejector, and rides on the lateral aspect of the connector.  It shouldn't be a "bitch" to get any of it back together.  If it is, you're doing something wrong.

 

What and where is the "J hook" you speak of?  Are you talking about the steel tab attached to the trigger spring?  If so, check the youtubes.  The new trigger springs on the 42 and 43 have a couple of idiosyncrasies that you need to be aware of.    


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#6 Yard Sale

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Posted 13 August 2016 - 08:25 PM

The J hook is the new integral spring part that hooks over the front of the cruciform on the new 43 apparatus, different from the old school Glock trigger springs.

 

I futzed around with it some more and broke out my 26 to compare what's going on with the trigger bar, connector, and cruciform. I can also see the engagement through a gap in the back plate. There is crap for engagement. When trying to reset, it's like the striker tab is just sitting on top of the cruciform.


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#7 barry owens

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Posted 13 August 2016 - 10:23 PM

I forsee a neutering or an assectomy in your near future, padawan.

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#8 Mr_White

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Posted 19 August 2016 - 08:33 AM

Did you buy this 43 at a DUI checkpoint?
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#9 AEuropa

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Posted 19 August 2016 - 08:38 AM

So you don't know what a trigger bar is, yet you thought it was within your skill set to polish the action in a pistol?
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#10 Peally

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Posted 19 August 2016 - 05:05 PM

Glock 18s are cool too.

#11 Perfecto

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Posted 20 August 2016 - 10:11 AM

I dunno, ever thought of revo-div?


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#12 Sickmonkey

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Posted 21 August 2016 - 06:23 AM

"I bent the connector every which way before giving up."

 

The connector when inserted solid into the trigger block should be pointing out to the right when viewed from the rear of the gun.  Do not bend this part.   it operates as a spring.  Not only does it provide the down forced travel for the trigger bar, it is also the reset.  So it will move left to right when operating correctly.  That is what the little bird head thing does.

 

Flip the slide over and look at the relation of the bird head to the inside of the slide as the gun operates.  With the slide off.  manually cycle the trigger.  Then press the bird head from right to left and it should click. The trigger bar should then move up into reset. 



#13 SoundsLikeBadger

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Posted 23 August 2016 - 01:06 PM

Only light polishing, with a Dremel. Lol.

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#14 Yard Sale

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Posted 25 August 2016 - 12:00 AM

The connector when inserted solid into the trigger block should be pointing out to the right when viewed from the rear of the gun.  Do not bend this part.   it operates as a spring.  Not only does it provide the down forced travel for the trigger bar, it is also the reset.  So it will move left to right when operating correctly.  That is what the little bird head thing does.

 

Flip the slide over and look at the relation of the bird head to the inside of the slide as the gun operates.  With the slide off.  manually cycle the trigger.  Then press the bird head from right to left and it should click. The trigger bar should then move up into reset. 

 

Now that is some solid, useful advice. What the hell are you doing on Doodie?

 

I read the 42/43 require slightly more angle of the connector away from the block, compared to the bigger Glocks.


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#15 Sickmonkey

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Posted 25 August 2016 - 06:08 AM

The "tits" thread brings me, then I stick around to read about shot timers and super shooters doing questionable things at matches.  Kind of entertaining.



#16 Yard Sale

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Posted 25 August 2016 - 01:48 PM

I played with the reset and compared it to my 26. It's working fine. I'm convinced it is the interface of the striker and cruciform. Compared to my other Glocks the striker face is not square and sharp.


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#17 busdriver

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Posted 25 August 2016 - 08:57 PM

Uhgg, You have other Glocks? Why?
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#18 ToddKS

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Posted 25 August 2016 - 09:11 PM

Because Perfection and #getpaid.

#19 Sickmonkey

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Posted 26 August 2016 - 06:13 AM

I played with the reset and compared it to my 26. It's working fine. I'm convinced it is the interface of the striker and cruciform. Compared to my other Glocks the striker face is not square and sharp.

 

It's good that you notice this relation.  My money is on the trigger bar.  Seems when aggressive polishing is involved the TB is usually the culprit. Good Luck. 



#20 not that bryan

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Posted 27 August 2016 - 06:48 AM

I played with the reset and compared it to my 26. It's working fine. I'm convinced it is the interface of the striker and cruciform. Compared to my other Glocks the striker face is not square and sharp.


Without seeing it it's hard to tell for sure. I will say in all of the 42 I've seen I have never seen a firing pin cause a failure. You would have to remove a lot of material from it to cause a problem and it's easier to mess up the trigger bar.





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