
steel targets - which size and which stand to get?
#22
Posted 24 August 2016 - 08:22 AM
Use some scrap steel and weld up your own. These cost me less than $5 each. If you can't weld, find someone that can. The local welding shop said they'd torch them out of 3/8" steel and weld on a simple hanger for around $20 bucks a target for something the size of notebook paper. You don't need AR500 steel unless you are shooting it with a rifle. If you have a welder but need steel, hit up a scrap yard and buy it by the pound.
No I'm not a newbie. Yes it's been a while since I was on here.
Games are won by players who focus on the playing field; not by those whose eyes are glued to the scoreboard - Warren Buffett
I'm here to improve my match performance, not to impress you.
#23
Posted 24 August 2016 - 05:37 PM
For pistol use 1/4 AR500 is very affordable. I do not regret the investment.
#24
Posted 24 August 2016 - 06:00 PM
If you can control the bullets that hit your non-AR steel and how fast they do so, it can last a long time, but get some steel jacket or +P in the mix and mild steel curls up like a Frito.
Solution: Be a dick and tell everybody else to go get their own damn steel to shoot at.
Use the rules. Don't DQ someone who doesn't do anything DQable. -- Da Beard.
#25
Posted 24 August 2016 - 07:27 PM
I used to do what you describle with scrap steel. The problem was that the steel would dimple and then I started getting some interesting return fire.
Honest question, how thick was the steel? The 3x3 square above is about 5/16" thick (maybe to thin). The 6x8 below it is 1/2" thick. The plate on the wood stand is 3/4" and I'm sure it's safe.
Games are won by players who focus on the playing field; not by those whose eyes are glued to the scoreboard - Warren Buffett
I'm here to improve my match performance, not to impress you.
#26
Posted 24 August 2016 - 09:46 PM
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#27
Posted 24 August 2016 - 10:08 PM
I had several thicknesses but the one that cratered the worst and started thowing bullets back was either 3/4" or 1" thick. The pieces were 10x10 squares approx.Honest question, how thick was the steel? The 3x3 square above is about 5/16" thick (maybe to thin). The 6x8 below it is 1/2" thick. The plate on the wood stand is 3/4" and I'm sure it's safe.
I had some 6" scrap angle that I used for knockdown targets that was harder and did not have near the issues with cratering.
What I learned for sure is that once the steel starts to dimple/crater interesting things can happen. As long as the surface of your steel is flat you should be in good shape.
#28
Posted 25 August 2016 - 04:39 AM
Games are won by players who focus on the playing field; not by those whose eyes are glued to the scoreboard - Warren Buffett
I'm here to improve my match performance, not to impress you.
#29
Posted 25 August 2016 - 10:46 AM
Do not confuse Thickness with Hardness.
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