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steel targets - which size and which stand to get?


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#21 ToddKS

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Posted 23 August 2016 - 02:56 PM

I would think the constant pinging would give you away. You should also consider moving your car. The splatter is going to mess up the paint for sure.

#22 TRBDN

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Posted 24 August 2016 - 08:22 AM

Use some scrap steel and weld up your own.  These cost me less than $5 each.  If you can't weld, find someone that can.  The local welding shop said they'd torch them out of 3/8" steel and weld on a simple hanger for around $20 bucks a target for something the size of notebook paper.  You don't need AR500 steel unless you are shooting it with a rifle.  If you have a welder but need steel, hit up a scrap yard and buy it by the pound. 

 

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#23 ToddKS

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Posted 24 August 2016 - 05:37 PM

I used to do what you describle with scrap steel. The problem was that the steel would dimple and then I started getting some interesting return fire. The last straw was a nearly intact 9mm bullet that came back and almost got me in the nutsack.

For pistol use 1/4 AR500 is very affordable. I do not regret the investment.

#24 snark

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Posted 24 August 2016 - 06:00 PM

If you can control the bullets that hit your non-AR steel and how fast they do so, it can last a long time, but get some steel jacket or +P in the mix and mild steel curls up like a Frito.

 

Solution: Be a dick and tell everybody else to go get their own damn steel to shoot at.


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#25 TRBDN

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Posted 24 August 2016 - 07:27 PM

I used to do what you describle with scrap steel. The problem was that the steel would dimple and then I started getting some interesting return fire.


Honest question, how thick was the steel? The 3x3 square above is about 5/16" thick (maybe to thin). The 6x8 below it is 1/2" thick. The plate on the wood stand is 3/4" and I'm sure it's safe.

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#26 Underdog

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Posted 24 August 2016 - 09:46 PM

My 3/8 ar500 plates will last a lifetime. It is perfectly flat, no dimples after a lot of shooting. So, I dont have to worry about getting hit with shrapnel. When you think about how much we spend on reloading, what's an extra 5-10 bucks to get steel that will last forever?

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#27 ToddKS

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Posted 24 August 2016 - 10:08 PM

Honest question, how thick was the steel? The 3x3 square above is about 5/16" thick (maybe to thin). The 6x8 below it is 1/2" thick. The plate on the wood stand is 3/4" and I'm sure it's safe.

I had several thicknesses but the one that cratered the worst and started thowing bullets back was either 3/4" or 1" thick. The pieces were 10x10 squares approx.

I had some 6" scrap angle that I used for knockdown targets that was harder and did not have near the issues with cratering.

What I learned for sure is that once the steel starts to dimple/crater interesting things can happen. As long as the surface of your steel is flat you should be in good shape.

#28 TRBDN

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Posted 25 August 2016 - 04:39 AM

Interesting that it was so thick and deformed anyway. I'll keep an eye on mine. If it starts to deform I order some AR500.

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#29 GuanoLoco

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Posted 25 August 2016 - 10:46 AM

Do not confuse Thickness with Hardness.


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#30 ToddKS

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Posted 25 August 2016 - 10:56 AM

Do not confuse Thickness with Hardness.

That should be on a meme.
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