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#21 TCB

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Posted 30 August 2018 - 02:33 PM

2016 price list... not sure if still accurate.

 

https://robarguns.co...-2016-Final.pdf



#22 MEISTERB

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Posted 30 August 2018 - 06:35 PM

$485 including shipping back to me. Plus shipping it there which UPS promptly fucked my eyes out. I should have lied about what I was shipping. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

#23 TCB

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Posted 31 August 2018 - 01:23 PM

so 3/4 of another Shadow...  hard pass.



#24 MEISTERB

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Posted 31 August 2018 - 01:28 PM

If u saw how the ceracoat looked before you would understand. Peeling off like sunburnt skin

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#25 CheesyD

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Posted 01 September 2018 - 04:44 AM

so 3/4 of another Shadow... hard pass.


Shit I thought it was a Stock 3...

But uh, yeah half the cost of a Stock 2/3, no thanks. It’s pretty though!


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#26 MemphisMechanic

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Posted 01 September 2018 - 10:17 AM

If u saw how the ceracoat looked before you would understand. Peeling off like sunburnt skin.

I hear this a lot and I stand by my conviction that the biggest problem is surface prep. I’ve scratched cerakote. Scuffed it. Worn clean through it along an entire side of a slide with hours of dryfire from a plastic holster. It’s still just a really hard paint, after all.

But if you properly degrease the gun, and achieve the right finish to the steel? It *will not* peel or chip.

The metal under that cerakote should have felt roughly the same as a sheer of 180-220 grit sandpaper to your fingertips. If it didn’t, cerakote won’t adhere because the shop cut corners.

There’s a specific grit and type of media that cerakote requires you to use when blasting the gun... and having done a dozen or so cerakote jobs? That is mandatory.
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#27 Cranky Gunsmith

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Posted 01 September 2018 - 12:13 PM

I had NP3 applied to a customers 1911 a few years back. Holy crap is it slippery. I dunno if I'd want my grip frame coated with it. I might consider it on a slide, but I'd rather have Robar apply standard electroless nickel.

#28 MEISTERB

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Posted 01 September 2018 - 05:29 PM

I hear this a lot and I stand by my conviction that the biggest problem is surface prep. I’ve scratched cerakote. Scuffed it. Worn clean through it along an entire side of a slide with hours of dryfire from a plastic holster. It’s still just a really hard paint, after all.

But if you properly degrease the gun, and achieve the right finish to the steel? It *will not* peel or chip.

The metal under that cerakote should have felt roughly the same as a sheer of 180-220 grit sandpaper to your fingertips. If it didn’t, cerakote won’t adhere because the shop cut corners.

There’s a specific grit and type of media that cerakote requires you to use when blasting the gun... and having done a dozen or so cerakote jobs? That is mandatory.

Memphis....it was the factory finish that was failing. I don't disagree with you on surface prep, but shouldn't a factory gun be done correctly? Maybe not!

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#29 MEISTERB

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Posted 01 September 2018 - 05:31 PM

I had NP3 applied to a customers 1911 a few years back. Holy crap is it slippery. I dunno if I'd want my grip frame coated with it. I might consider it on a slide, but I'd rather have Robar apply standard electroless nickel.

Grips aren't coated and the checkering is so aggressive it doesn't seem to be an issue. I'm will report back on how it holds up to the holster

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#30 MemphisMechanic

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Posted 02 September 2018 - 01:26 AM

Memphis....it was the factory finish that was failing. I don't disagree with you on surface prep, but shouldn't a factory gun be done correctly? Maybe not!

For what it’s worth, I’ve only seen peeling cerakote on factory firearms.

Coating and curing takes a total of 70 minutes... the pre-work is a couple of hours for me. Apparently the gun makers don’t have that kind of time?

I should post a couple of photos of my PCC’s magwell. I’ve scratched scuffed and hacked grooves in the cerakote along the rim when dryfiring reloads... but it hasn’t peeled or flaked off yet.
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#31 Buck Turgidson

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Posted 02 September 2018 - 08:36 PM

Melonite the fucker or you ain't tactical as fuck

 

They told me at snipershide, arfcom, and m4c that melonite is what all the cool kids do to make their guns black

 

It's a coating, dontchaknow?


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#32 Peally

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Posted 03 September 2018 - 10:58 AM

Another vote to Mennonite your slide.



#33 MemphisMechanic

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Posted 03 September 2018 - 11:50 AM

Another vote to Mennonite your slide.

Are the Mennonites allowed to own firearms?

beard1.jpg
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#34 Peally

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Posted 03 September 2018 - 12:09 PM

Dunno but they're only around because of them.



#35 Intel6

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Posted 03 September 2018 - 02:18 PM

Are the Mennonites allowed to own firearms?

beard1.jpg

 

 

yes but they cant be chrome or anything shiny,  they need to be all black. :rolleyes:



#36 Buck Turgidson

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Posted 03 September 2018 - 04:19 PM

yes but they cant be chrome or anything shiny,  they need to be all black. :rolleyes:

 

What you did there, I see it


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#37 GuanoLoco

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Posted 03 September 2018 - 10:39 PM

Your firearm is very plain, Joseph.

Thank you for noticing, Abraham.
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#38 MEISTERB

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Posted 04 September 2018 - 06:37 AM

Funny the thread drifted this direction. Two weeks ago I did a job in Eastern PA in what they call "Amish Country". I learned how to distinguish Amish buggies from Mennonite buggies.....all black = Mennonite....gray top = Amish. Glad I could help edumacte the Doodies...SMH

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#39 TCB

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Posted 04 September 2018 - 12:29 PM

Is CZ using something different to coat the S2's  than the polycoat stuff on the S1's??  The factory CZ finish has been one of the more durable gun finishes that I  have encountered.



#40 Sweet T

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Posted 04 September 2018 - 01:10 PM

$485 including shipping back to me. 

 

holy shit


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